SOME might say that Tom van Zeller is a brave man. Not only did he launch his new restaurant on Friday the 13th, but he has also opened during a time when many eateries are reporting a downturn in trade.
But Tom seems to have the courage of his convictions, saying: "I think Harrogate has been lacking a top class restaurant for some time.
"It's a very serious time for everybody economically, but dining in my restaurant is about simple pleasures."
Tom is chef patron of Van Zeller restaurant, located in the premises of the former Lords Restaurant on Montpellier Street.
He has worked in the kitchens of restaurants in New York and Sydney but if you're expecting to find internationally-influenced cuisine at Van Zeller, you'll be disappointed.
"You're certainly not going to see anything other than British dishes sourced locally," says Tom.
Starters on the a la carte menu range from £4.95 to £7.95, while mains come in between £10.50 and £16. Desserts are £4.95 to £6.95.
The menu is varied but not too expansive, always a good sign, and will change with the seasons. So the hearty, wintry dishes currently on offer include game terrine with spiced pear chutney, braised blade of beef with Chateau potato and savoy cabbage, and local venison with beetroot gratin, Cox's apple and red wine sauce.
Tom has worked with some of the restaurant industry's elite, including Raymond Blanc and Simon Gueller of the Michelin-starred Box Tree in Ilkley.
These experiences are reflected in his food, which is well-presented, with an attention to detail. The dishes look pretty and appealing, and taste just as good, although they're a little on the meagre side.
The starter of soused east coast herrings was very tasty but a tad soft, needing some crunch in its accompaniment.
Among the main dishes, the venison was of melt-in-the-mouth tenderness, perfectly balanced by the accompanying beetroot gratin and red wine sauce. The roasted cod was also cooked to perfection.
For dessert, the hot chocolate fondant, served with vanilla ice cream, was a delight, while the selection of British and French artisan cheeses was beautifully ripe.
The restaurant's interior has undergone a radical transformation, with the removal of the long side bar and the table partitions.
The decor is light and pale, adding to the sense that the space has been opened up, but the venue's intimacy and cosiness has been retained.
It is, however, a little uninspiring – and uninspired – but clearly the intention was not to make a bold love-it-or-hate-it statement.
I'm not sure everyone would agree with Tom's assertion that Harrogate is lacking a top class restaurant.
But Van Zeller is certainly a worthy addition to the best dining venues in the town.
katie.oxtoby@ypn.co.uk
l A lunch menu is also available for £12.95 to £14.95 for two courses, as well as pre-theatre and Sunday lunch menus.
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